There are several reasons to install extended wheel studs on a Tacoma, but most commonly they are installed in order to run wheel spacers. Wheel spacers are installed to push the wheel away from the frame, either to achieve a more aggressive stance for the vehicle or to prevent rubbing of the tire/wheel on the frame or suspension components.
Whatever the reason, the process is relatively straight forward, and this guide walks through the process, highlighting several important aspects, and providing tips along the way.
The Parts - Wheel Studs and Spacers
The first thing to determine is the desired length for the wheel studs that will be installed. A good rule of thumb is that:
- For spacers with a thickness between 0 - 1/2-inch, install wheel studs that are longer than stock by the same length as the thickness of the spacer. A 1/2" spacer would then suggest a stud that is 12mm longer than stock.
- For spacers with a thickness of 3/4" or more, new wheel studs may not be required. Instead, it may be necessary to trim the existing wheel studs so that they do not extend beyond the outer face of the spacer. In this case, may be necessary if the spacer is removed.
Besides length, the diameter, thread pitch, and knurl size on a wheel stud are also important measurements. A stock Toyota 1st-3rd gen Tacoma / 3rd-5th gen 4Runner (and many more Toyota/Lexus vehicles) uses a wheel stud that is 40mm long, and M12x1.5 with a 14.20mm knurl.
The list of wheel studs below will fit a Tacoma/4Runner hub, but may be the incorrect length based on the spacer setup that will be used:
- Toyota OEM wheel studs (90942-02049). Recommended if no spacer will be used.
- Kyo-Ei SBT-2 wheel studs. Made in Japan, these are 57mm long, and work well for 0-1/2" spacers. They are a good choice as they are long enough to ensure good thread engagement with a 1/2" spacer, but short enough to fit (without trimming) into a lug nut when no spacer is used.
- ARP wheel studs for a Lexus IS300 (100-7715). ARP has a great reputation, and folks have successfully used these studs, but at 66mm long, they are almost always too long to fit inside the lug nut without trimming. Still, they can be trimmed to any length and are the recommended option when options 1 and 2 will not work.
Once studs have been chosen, select a set of quality spacers. Unfortunately, quality spacers are not cheap, but there is good reason to choose quality over the low price of off-brand spacers found online. This is especially true of 3/4" or thicker spacers, where the spacer itself is subjected to enormous amounts of force, as it is secured both to the hub and the wheel.
With that in mind, choose spacers from Spidertrax (a smidge cheaper, with the amazon return policy) or BORA (a few more options, but no returns) branded offerings. Both made in the USA, they provide nearly any size desired and have each built up fantastic reputations over the years.
Kyo-Ei SBT-2 wheel studs and 1/2" BORA spacers.
The Tools
Only a few tools are necessary for this relatively simple job.
- A few different size sockets/wrenches (though expensive this is a good kit that has nearly everything you'll ever need)
- 12mm - to remove the brake line from the bracket on the spindle.
- 17mm - to remove the brake caliper from the hub.
- 21mm impact - removal and installation of lug nuts.
- Impact wrench - for removing your lug nuts, but also for installing (pulling) the knurled portion of the new wheel studs into the hub.
- Some throw-away lug nuts, washers, and nuts to use as spacers when installing (pulling) the knurled portion of the new wheel studs into the hub.
- A hammer - to knock out the original wheel studs, and to bend the brake dust shield.
- A pair of pliers - to bend the brake dust shield and assist in installation of the longer wheel studs.
- Torque wrench - to re-torque the caliper bolts and lug nuts.
- And of course, a Floor jack and (2) 6 ton jack stands.
The Install
There's nothing hard here.
Preparation
- Jack up the front of the vehicle and support the frame on 6-ton jack stands.
- Remove the wheels.
- Remove the brake line bracket on the spindle with a 12mm socket.
- Remove the two (2) 17mm bolts that secure the brake caliper to the hub and use a strap to hang the caliper from the upper control arm (UCA) so it is out of the way.
- Remove the brake rotor and set it aside.
Removal of the Original Wheel Studs
- In order to get the old wheel studs out and the new ones in, a small bit of the dust shield will need to be bent out of the way. Use a pair of pliers or a hammer to carefully bend it back, making room for the wheel stud to be pressed out.
- Rotate the hub until a wheel stud is in the location where the dust shield was clearanced, and screw a throw-away lug nut onto a wheel stud.
- Using a hammer, knock the wheel stud out of the hub.
Repeat this process for the remaining wheel studs.
Installation of the New Wheel Studs
Like removal, installation isn't difficult, but does require a strong impact wrench and several throw-away spacers that can be used to pull the wheel studs into the hub.
Note: as you're pulling studs into the hub, it is important to protect the surface of the hub by ensuring that whatever spacers you are using are not spinning on the hub, and to protect the threads of the new wheel studs so that lug nuts will seat properly.
- Rotate the hub until an empty wheel stud hole is in the location where the dust shield was bent out of the way. Insert a wheel stud into the hole from the frame side.
- On the wheel side of the hub, slide several spacers - nuts, washers, etc. - over the first inch or so of the wheel stud, and then thread on a throw-away lug nut.Note: Consider all of the spacers, as well as the lug nut that you are using for this operation to be throw-away. While they may last for a few studs, they will all be ruined as the knurling on the stud is pulled into the hub.
- Using an impact wrench, tighten the throw-away lug nut until the knurling on the new wheel stud is pulled fully into the hub.Note: the sound should change slightly when the stud bottoms out. It is important for the stud to bottom out, but it is also important to refrain from over-tightening with the impact wrench as you can ruin the wheel stud.Note 2: To protect the surface of the hub, use a pair of pliers to keep the nut closest to the hub from spinning as the throw-away lug nut is tightened.
Repeat this process for the remaining wheel studs.
Finishing Up
- Place the brake rotor over the wheel studs and hand tighten two lug nuts to snug it up to the hub.
- Reinstall the brake caliper. Torque the two (2), 17mm bolts to 90 ft-lbs.
- Reinstall the 12mm bolt that secures the brake line bracket to the spindle. Torque to tight.
- Slip the spacers over the wheel studs, ensuring that it seats correctly on the hub ring.
- Reinstall the wheels and tighten but do not torque all lug nuts.
- Remove the jack stands so that the vehicle is supporting its own weight. Torque lug nuts to 90 ft-lbs.
That's it! Because you've installed new wheel studs, check your lug nut torque a few times over the next 500-1,000 miles to ensure that they remain tight.