Step-by-Step: Chevy 63 Leaf Spring Swap on a Tacoma

When it comes to rear suspension on a 1st gen Toyota Tacoma, there are many different leaf spring options - each with tradeoffs in terms of cost, ride, additional lift, and durability. In general, it's usually the right call to choose an aftermarket leaf spring option that's been developed for a 1st gen Tacoma, depending on how the truck is used. Check out Replacing Leaf Springs on a Tacoma for proven options that work in the following situations:

Option 1: Stock Replacement
Option 2: 0-3" Lift with Small-to-Moderate Intermittent Load
Option 3: Custom Lift with Heavy Constant Load

However, while those options are the right choice in most cases, there is a fourth option that should be reserved for those who are willing to invest significant labor in order to get the most out of the rear end of their Tacoma:

Option 4: Custom Lift with Heavy Constant Load and High Performance

This is a good option if you are constantly carrying heavy loads (600+ lbs) over all types of terrain, and want to achieve:

More travel out of your rear suspension that stock-length Tacoma leaf springs can provide.
A more comfortable ride over varied terrain - and with varied loads - than can be achieved with stock-length Tacoma leaf springs (though, Option 3 can get close).
The ability to more easily customize the leaf pack to adjust the ride height, load capacity, and characteristics.

The Chevy 63 leaf spring swap achieves these additional capabilities primarily due to the longer length of the leaf springs themselves. At 63" from eye-to-eye, they are 15" longer than stock-length leaf springs. This longer arch gives more travel and a smoother ride, and because they were originally installed on 1/2- to 1-ton trucks, it is relatively easy to add or remove leafs in order to dial in the exact ride characteristics that one desires.

The tradeoff for these additional capabilities comes in the form of an extremely labor-intensive installation that entails cutting the frame in the correct locations, safely and securely welding new leaf spring hangers into the frame, all while ensuring that the rear axle remains perfectly aligned in order to keep the truck rolling straight down the road. If any of this work is done incorrectly, it can quickly render a Tacoma un-drivable.

This option will also require the following additional work. Much - but not all - of which is covered in this guide:

Performing a U-bolt flip from the stock u-bolt configuration.
Extending the rear brake line.
Installing a tailpipe relocation bracket or otherwise re-routing the exhaust.
Performing a rear shock relocation utilizing extended shocks. Not covered in this guide and must be done after the Chevy 63 leaf springs are completely installed; see How-To: Toyota Tacoma Rear Shock Relocation - Determining Leaf Spring Cycle and Mount Positioning
Based on the extended rear shocks chosen, installation of
- custom rear bump stops.
- limit straps.

Parts

If you've decided that the Chevy 63 swap is for you, these are the springs you'll need.

Chevy 63 leaf springs - there are many variants of these leaf springs, and the pack needed for any Tacoma will be dependent on the configuration of the Tacoma. Pick up a pack that is "close" to suiting your Tacoma, then add/remove leafs in order to get the ride stiffness and height desired. Note: These should run between $15 and $100 for a pair of packs at a junk yard/pick-n-pull.
- Leaf packs from a '88-98 Chevy/GMC 1500/2500 2WD/4WD truck are generally stiffer than the newer packs and will work well for Xtra and DoubleCab Tacomas.
  - 3+1 (3 leafs + 1 overload leaf) - from 1/2-ton 2WD/4WD trucks. These are the softest springs, with the least load carrying capacity (but generally still plenty for any 1st gen Tacoma).
  - 4+1 - from 3/4-ton 2WD/4WD trucks. A compromise between the 3+1 and 5+1 options.
  - 5+1 - from 1-ton 2WD/4WD trucks. These are the stiffest springs, with the most load-carrying capacity.
- Leaf packs from a newer '99+ models are softer than the older springs, 2 leaf and 3 leaf varieties are great for a single cab Tacoma. These were also found in '91+ leaf spring-equipped 1500-3500 Tahoes and Suburbans.
Bushings for the leaf springs. There are several options here based on bushing material and model year of your donor springs. Personally, I recommend rubber bushings for a softer ride, less maintenance, and no squeaking, but some people like the "tactile" feel of a polyurethane bushing:
- 1988-1998 leaf packs
  - Rubber: (4 individual) of Moog Leaf Spring Shackle Bushing for Chevrolet Truck (MOOG K200897)
  - Polyurethane: (1 kit) of Energy Suspension Chevy Rear Leaf Spring Bushing Set 3.2128 (Red | Black/Gray)
- 1999+ leaf packs
  - Rubber: (4 individual) DAYTON Leaf Spring Shackle Bushing for Chevrolet Truck (RB250)
  - Polyurethane: (1 kit) of Energy Suspension Chevy Rear Leaf Spring Bushing Set 3.2141 (Red | Black/Gray)

If you've decided that the Chevy 63 swap is for you, these are most of the parts you'll need.

A Chevy Spring Swap Kit - depending on whether you need u-bolts or new leaf spring perches and plates, there are two options: Note: you probably do need new spring perches and plates, as stock Tacoma leaf springs are 2.25" wide, and Chevy 63s are 2.5" wide.
- Chevy 63 Spring Swap Basic Kit. This kit contains everything you'll need if you already have u-bolts and the correct perches+plates on your rear axle housing. Note: remember that u-bolts are a single-use part, so you shouldn't just reuse your existing u-bolts, even if they would fit.
  - 2, Frenched Leaf Spring Hangers
  - 1 Pair, Shackle Hangers with Bushings
  - 4, 9/16"x5" Grade 8 Bolts with Nylock Nuts
  - 2, 9/16"x4.5" Grade 8 Bolts with Nylock nuts
  - 4, Shackles drilled to 9/16" (standard length is 5", but 4", 6", and 7" are also available)
- Recommended: Chevy 63 Spring Swap Full Kit with U-bolts and Perches. This kit contains everything from the Basic Kit, and adds the following:
  - 2, Spring plates for 2.5" wide leaf pack (fits 3-3.5" axle tube)
  - 2, Spring perches for 2.5" wide leaf pack (fits 3-3.5" axle tube)
  - 4, U-bolts 10" x 5/8" x 3-3.5" axle tube size
(2) or (4) pieces of steel plate 14x6-inches, 1/8- to 3/16-inch thick to be used as reinforcement plates.
Bump stops
Limit Straps Note: length will depend on your application, and must be determined after the rear shocks have been relocated and cycled.
26" Extended rear brake line
Installing a tailpipe relocation bracket or otherwise re-routing the exhaust.
(2) Extended rear shocks - as appropriate. Exact shock and mounting hardware will depend on shock mounting location, total overall lift, etc. In all cases, a shock relocation should be performed.

Tools

To do the job, you'll need several tools. You'll be cutting into the frame of your Tacoma and then welding various new bits into place.

One or more angle grinders, along with several cut-off disks, grinding discs, flap-disks, and wire-wheels.
A welder. I like using a 240v Miller 211 Mig Welder, but any mig welder should do. You'll need everything that goes with a welder - gas, gloves, shield, etc. - as well.
Tape measure.
Spray primer and paint.
Floor jack.
Two (2) or more 6-ton jack stands.
A socket set (I like this one) and impact socket set (I like this one).
An impact wrench - for removal/installation of lug nuts, various suspension components, etc.
A breaker bar.
A set of crescent wrenches.

Doing the Job

With the requisite parts and tools gathered, the job of replacing the leaf springs entails disconnection and removal of the old leaf springs, modification of the frame to install new front and rear hangers for the Chevy 63 leaf springs, and installation of the new leaf springs.

Additionally, the following must be completed at the same time:

Installation of an extended brake line. (covered below)
Relocation of the mounting location of the rear shocks. (covered in this guide: How-To: Toyota Tacoma Rear Shock Relocation - Determining Leaf Spring Cycle and Mount Positioning)

When replacing leaf springs, it is easiest - and safest - to do one side at a time. However, with the Chevy 63 swap, there is so much fabrication work to do that it is much more efficient to do both sides at the same time, making the work much more dangerous, as the entire rear end of the truck will be supported on jack stands, rather than just one corner.

Take the appropriate precautions. Make sure to use quality stands, and have safety measures - such as blocks - in place, should the jack stands fail.

Securing the Truck

Move the truck into a location where you have access from all sides and can ideally leave it overnight.
Put the truck in 4WD (ensure that it engages), and in gear. Chalk both sides of both front tires.
Disconnect negative lead from the battery, since you'll be welding on the truck during this process.
If applicable, lower the spare tire from under the bed and set it aside.

Removing the Rear Bumper

Locate the license plate illumination lights and disconnect them from the bumper by rotating them counterclockwise from the back side of the bumper.
Use a 17mm socket and short extension to remove the four (4) bolts that secure the rear bumper brackets to the frame. Set the bumper aside.

Removing the Taillights and Fuel Filler Housing

Remove the four (4), Philips screws that hold each taillight to the bed.
Disconnect any connectors for the taillights (and tow harness if applicable) and set the taillight assemblies aside.
Using needle nose pliers, remove the plastic clips holding the taillight harness to the bed, being careful not to break the clips.
Fish the taillight wiring harness down and out of the taillight holes in the bed, letting them hang down.
Remove the four (4), Philips screws that secure the plastic fuel filler housing around the fuel neck and remove the housing (making sure to replace the gas cap to keep dirt out of the fuel system).

Remove the Bed

Using a 17mm socket and any necessary extensions, remove the 2 front, 2 middle, and 2 rear bed bolts that secure the bed to the frame.
Using the help of several friends or an engine hoist, lift the bed off of the frame of the truck and set it aside. As you do, be careful to thread the fuel filler tube out of the hole without bending it.

By running ratchet straps between the tie-downs in diagonally opposing corners of the bed, an engine hoist can make easy work of removing the bed.

Remove the Rear Drive Shaft from the Rear Diff

The drive shaft need not be disconnected from the transfer case for this procedure.

Using a paint pen, make a witness mark on the slip joint of the rear drive shaft. Note: It's important to keep the drive shaft aligned, as it is balanced prior to installation.

You shouldn't need to separate the slip joint, but the witness mark ensures that you can get it back together if you accidentally do.
Using a paint pen, make a witness mark at the rear flange and rear diff so that it can be re-attached to the rear diff in the same orientation.
Using a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench, loosen and remove the four (4) bolts that secure the rear drive shaft to the rear diff flange.
With fasteners removed from drive shaft, support the shaft while striking it from the bottom - as near the rear flange as possible - with a rubber dead-blow mallet.
Support the rear end of the drive shaft on a jack stand, being careful that there is no pressure on any of the u-joints.

Disconnecting the Emergency Brake

Remove the small clip that holds the pin that secures the emergency brake cable to the rear brake drum.
The emergency brake line is secured to the rear axle housing in several locations with 12mm bolts and clips. Remove each of the bolts to completely free the emergency brake cable from the rear axle housing.
Move the emergency brake cable out of the way.

Some trucks have an emergency brake cable that passes over the leaf springs and others pass under. The procedure outlined above is the same, regardless.

Disconnecting the ABS

Only necessary for trucks equipped with ABS.

Unplug the respective ABS sensor from each side of the rear axle housing.
The ABS line is secured to the rear axle housing in several locations with 12mm bolts and clips. Remove each of the bolts and clips to completely free the ABS line from the rear axle housing.
Move the ABS line out of the way.

Disconnecting the Brake Proportioning Valve Lever from the Axle Housing

Using a 12mm socket and 12mm wrench, remove the bolt that secures the long lever of the brake proportioning valve to the rear axle housing by removing the bracket on the housing or by removing the single bolt between the lever and the bracket. Note: when separating the lever from the mount, there are several washers and spacers that may not be immediately apparent, but must be retained for reinstallation.

Removing the Flexible Brake Line between the Frame and Axle Housing

Using a long flat screwdriver, a small pry bar, or pliers, remove the brake line clip that secures the brake line at the driver side frame rail.
Using a 10mm flare nut wrench on the hard line, and the appropriately sized wrench on the flexible brake line, disconnect the brake line at the driver side frame bracket. Note: work quickly at this point as brake fluid will be leaking.
Using a cap or plug, cover the end of the hard brake line at the frame so that brake fluid is not leaking out.
Disconnect the flexible brake line from the tee that is bolted to the rear axle housing.
Clean up any brake fluid that has spilled.

Tip from Zane: Another way to keep the brake fluid from leaking out of the rear line is to use a shock absorber to completely depress the brake pedal to the floor. This depresses the brake cylinder, trapping brake fluid in the system under vacuum and preventing additional fluid from entering from the reservoir. A piece of wood can be used in place of the shock, wedged between the brake pedal and seat. (Scoot the seat forward to keep the brake pedal completely depressed.)

Disconnecting the e-locker

The e-locker has a small breather line that is a pressure fit. Carefully pull the line away from the e-locker until it separates. Note: it may be necessary to use a set of pliers for this operation in order to grab the breather line near the entrance to the e-locker.
Disconnect the two plugs that secure the wiring harness to the e-locker. Note: it may be necessary to clean out debris and use a pair of pliers to remove these plugs without breaking them.
Remove the 12mm bolt that secures the e-locker wiring harness to the rear axle housing.
Move the e-locker wiring harness out of the way.

Dropping the Gas Tank

Dropping the gas tank is significantly easier when it is empty (or nearly so). Plan accordingly.

Disconnect the fuel pump and fuel sender wiring harness from the top of the gas tank. Note: it may be necessary to clean out debris and use a pair of pliers to remove this plug without breaking it.
Using a 19mm and 14mm flare nut wrenches, loosen and disconnect the pressurized fuel line. Note: a small amount of gasoline may leak out. Be prepared to catch it if you care.
Remove the compression clips from the unpressurized fuel return and evap hoses, then disconnect the hoses from the fuel tank.
Using a 12mm socket, unbolt the emergency brake cable from the bracket that secures the fuel filler neck to the frame.
Using a 12mm socket, unbolt the bracket that secures the fuel filler neck to the frame.
Using a 12mm socket and any necessary extensions, remove the four (4) bolts - 2 front and 2 rear - that secure the gas tank skid plate to the gas tank.
Set the gas tank skid plate aside.
Support the gas tank with a transmission jack or other device that will keep it from falling when the bolts that secure it are removed.
Using a 12mm socket, remove the single remaining bolt that secures the front of the gas tank to the frame cross member.
Using a 12mm socket and any necessary extensions, remove the tensioning bolt that secures the strap that wraps around the bottom of the gas tank to the frame.
Rotate the strap out of the way.
Carefully lower the gas tank to the floor and move it out of the way, being careful not to tweak the filler neck in the process.
Remove the small clip that holds the pin that secures the still-connected end of the gas tank strap and set the gas tank strap aside.

Supporting the Back of the Truck

Use a floor jack under the rear differential to lift the truck high enough to position a fully extended 6-ton jack stand under the frame rail, approximately 20 inches in front of the leaf hanger.
Lower the truck onto a pair of 6-ton jack stands. Note: it is necessary to support the truck this far forward, as you will need access to the frame from this location, back.

Note: At this point, the only connections between the rear axle and frame should be the leaf springs. Ensure that when you lower the rear axle, no brake lines, wires, etc. will stretch beyond their limit. Any that may prevent the axle from being lowered fully and removed should be disconnected.

Determining the Position of the Existing Rear Axle

This is one of the most important elements of this project. Precise measurements here will allow you to install the Chevy 63 leaf springs in such a way that your rear axle will be in the same position - relative to the front wheels, frame, and wheel wells - ensuring proper alignment and interaction with other components of the vehicle.

Using a plumb line, hang the plumb line over the frame so that the point of the weight is immediately above the center of the rear axle.
Mark both sides of the plumb line on the frame so that you can place it in the same position later.
Measure the distance from the oval, rear-most hole, of the transmission cross member to the center of the rear axle on the each side of the vehicle, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be approximately 90½ inches, and should be the-same-or-similar between the driver and passenger sides of the truck.
Measure the distance from the center of the OEM front leaf spring hanger bolt to the center of the rear axle on each side of the vehicle, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be the-same-or-similar between the driver and passenger sides of the truck.

Disconnecting the Rear Shocks

Note: this procedure is for shocks mounted to the OEM location. Adapt accordingly to remove the rear shocks in your situation.

Use a 19mm socket or wrench to remove the bolts that secures the lower shock eyes to the shock mounts.
Use a 19mm socket or wrench to remove the bolts that secures the upper shock eyes to the frame.
Remove the shocks.

Disconnecting the Old Leaf Pack from the Frame

By disconnecting the leaf pack from the frame at this stage, you can roll the entire wheel-axle-leaf pack assembly out from under the frame of the vehicle. If you don't have room to do this, you can also remove the wheels, then disconnect the rear axle, and finally remove the leaf springs.

Note: Disconnecting the leaf pack from the frame is significantly easier when there is no pressure on the leaf pack itself - that is, it is not being compressed, nor is it holding up the rear axle.

Lower the floor jack until the leaf pack relaxes and is not under pressure. When this occurs, you will notice that the individual leafs in the pack separate slightly. Note: ideally the tires will be on the ground when the pack is relaxed, however, it is OK if they are still slightly off the ground and the rear axle is still supported by the floor jack.
Use a 19mm socket and 19mm wrench to remove the nut, washer, and bolt that secure the forward eye of the leaf spring to the hanger attached to the frame. Note the orientation of the nuts and washers for reinstallation.
Using a 19mm socket, remove the two nuts on the rear shackle, then remove the inboard portion of the shackle. Note the orientation of the nuts and washers for reinstallation.

Removing the shackle.
Pull the outboard portion of the shackle out of the leaf spring and frame bushings to separate the rear end of the leaf springs from the frame. Note: this may require some persuasion.
Once both leaf springs are completely free of the frame, roll the entire wheel-axle-leaf frame assembly out from under the rear of the truck.

Disconnecting the Old Leaf Pack from the Rear Axle

Thoroughly soak the four nuts that secure the u-bolts with penetrating oil.
Using a breaker bar, remove the four nuts that secure the u-bolts.
Remove the u-bolts as well as any hardware (bump stop, u-bolt plate, etc.) that they secured.
Remove the leaf springs from the rear axle and set all components aside.

Measuring for the New Front Leaf Spring Hangers

Since not all Tacoma frames are identical, there is some trial-and-error in this process. Be ready for it, and don't cut your frame or fully weld any of the new hangers in place prior to verifying the alignment of your rear axle.

Determine how far - if at all - you want to french the front hangers into the frame. Consider the following, which may be either pros or cons depending on your perspective:
- Frenching into the frame will reduce lift of the rear end.
- Frenching into the frame will increase ground clearance along the frame rail, and will make it less likely that the front hanger will get caught up on obstacles.
- Frenching into the frame may result in the leaf springs contacting the frame during compression.
Given the above, I choose to french my front hangers into the frame approximately 1-inch, in order to:
- Reduce lift on the rear end (allowing me to control lift with the leaf springs and rear shackles).
- Increase ground clearance and reduce the risk of getting caught on obstacles.
- Allow for full compression (bump stop contact) without contact between the leaf springs and frame rail.
Using a Sharpie or paint pen, make a mark on the front leaf spring hanger where the center of the hanger pin will be once the hanger is frenched into the frame. For example:
- Frenching into the frame 1-inch: Mark 1-inch above the existing hole and make measurements to this mark.
- Welding to the bottom of the frame: No need to make any mark, you will measure to the center of the actual hole.
Holding the front hanger to the bottom of the frame, measure 58 3/4" between the oval, rear-most hole, of the transmission cross member (Note: the same hole used earlier to measure the distance to the center of the rear axle.) and the mark made on the front hanger in the previous step.
Mark the front and rear location of the front hanger on the frame.
The front hanger is wider than the frame of the Tacoma; center the front hanger on the frame side-to-side.
Tack the front hanger onto the frame with four reasonably strong tacks. Note: These tacks will need to support the weight of the truck during a test fit.
Repeat for the opposite side.

Prepping the Chevy 63 Leaf Pack

Every Chevy 63 leaf pack is different, and the weight/support requirements of every Tacoma vary, so only general guidelines are given here.

Disassemble the Chevy 63 leaf pack that you acquired for this project by installing a C-clamp on either side of the center pin, and then remove the center pin.
Remove leafs as necessary until you have the number of leafs you suspect will provide the lift and carrying capacity you desire for your Tacoma. Note: Shorter leafs provide more life and more carrying capacity than longer leafs.
Reassemble the leaf pack by inserting a new 3/8" center pins to keep the indiviual leafs aligned, and C-clamps to pull them together. Once they are together, install the nut on the center pin to lock them in place.

Note: Do not use the center pin nut to pull the leaf pack together.

Be sure to maintain the metal spacers between each of the Chevy 63 leafs at the center pin location. These spacers allow the leaf pack to move much more easily, providing a softer ride and more travel.

Testing Fitment

This section of the guide is critical and where you will ensure that your Chevy 63 leaf springs will position your rear axle in the same location as leaf springs mounted to the stock location.

Position the front eye of the Chevy 63 leaf springs into the front hanger and insert a 9/16" bolt to hold it in position.
Loosely thread on a 9/16" nut so the bolt cannot slide out of the hanger.
Utilizing the OEM rear leaf spring shackle hangers and the new rear leaf spring shackles position the rear eye of the Chevy 63 leaf springs into the rear shackle/hanger and insert a 9/16" bolts to hold it in position.
Loosely thread on a 9/16" nut so the bolt cannot slide out of the rear shackles.
With the wheels and tires still attached, maneuver the rear axle assembly into position under the leaf springs, aligning the center hole of the leaf perches with the head of the leaf spring center pin. Note: you may need to raise the rear of the frame slightly in order for the leaf springs to clear and engage with the leaf perches.
Using the new u-bolts and top plates, secure the rear axle to the Chevy 63 leaf springs. Note: the u-bolts should be just tight enough to keep the leaf perches and leaf springs aligned/together. Do you torque the u-bolts at this time.
Carefully remove any jack stands that are supporting the truck, making sure to monitor the integrity of the tack welds holding on the front leaf hangers throughout the process.
Using a plumb line, hang the plumb line over the frame so that the line is between the two marks created earlier.
Verify that the point of the plumb bob weight is immediately above the center of the rear axle. Note: as weight is added to the truck, the axle will move backward slightly, so if the plumb bob is slightly behind the center of the axle, this is also OK.

Plumb line slightly behind the center of the axle on the passenger side.
(front of Tacoma to the right of photo)
Measure the distance from the oval, rear-most hole, of the transmission cross member to the center of the rear axle on the each side of the vehicle, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be the same or slightly (up to 1/2" ) shorter than the same measurement taken prior to removing the old leaf springs.
Measure the distance from the center of the OEM front leaf spring hanger bolt to the center of the rear axle on each side of the vehicle, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be the-same-or-similar between the driver and passenger sides of the truck.
Measure the distance from the oval, rear-most hole, of the transmission cross member to the mark representing the final position of the new front leaf spring hanger bolt, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be the-same-or-similar between the driver and passenger sides of the truck.
Measure the distance from the mark representing the final position of the new front leaf spring hanger bolt to the center of the rear axle on each side of the vehicle, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be the-same-or-similar between the driver and passenger sides of the truck.
If the numbers recorded in the previous three steps are as expected (or are very close), continue with the next steps; otherwise, correct the location of the new front leaf spring hangers and repeat the fitment testing.
Position a jack stand under each side of the frame, but 2" below the frame rail, in the same position as before, approximately 20 inches in front of the OEM leaf hanger. Note: These are "safey" stands, should the tack welds on the front leaf hangers fail in the next several steps.
Place the bed on the frame and position it so that the mounting holes are aligned. Do not actually bolt the bed to the frame.
Fill the bed with several hundred pounds of gear, to bring the rear of the truck to a reasonable ride height. Note1: This does not need to be the full loaded weight, but should be enough to settle the rear end a bit. Note2: be careful to monitor the integrity of the tack welds on the front leaf hangers during this process.
Use a plumb line from a consistent spot in each wheel well to check that the rear wheels are equally positioned in the wheel wells.
Visually verify that the wheels are not positioned too far forward or two far backward in the wheel wells.
If everything checks out, complete the following steps and move to the next section; otherwise, complete the following steps to reposition the front leaf spring hangers and test fitment again.
1. Remove the contents from the bed.
2. Remove the bed
3. Use a floor jack to raise the rear end of the truck until you can support the rear end of the truck with jack stands approximately 20 inches in front of the leaf hanger (the same position as before).
4. Loosen and remove the u-bolts; then remove the rear axle and wheel assembly.
5. Remove the Chevy 63 leaf springs from the front hangers and rear shackles.

Cutting the Frame and Tacking the New Front Hangers

Carefully mark the final location of the front hangers on the inside face, outside face, and bottom face of the frame.
Using a grinder, break the tacks holding the front hangers to the frame and clean any remaining weld bead off of the frame and front hangers.
Prep the front hangers for installation by welding all seams of the two components comprising the assembly.
Place a rectangular piece of cardboard that is 12" long and 5" high to represent a short section of frame, place the front leaf hanger assembly in the cardboard in the position that it will be frenched into the frame.
Trace around the front leaf hanger assembly on the cardboard to represent the portion of frame that will be removed.
Cut out the cardboard that represents portion of frame that will be removed.
Place the remaining cardboard template on the outside of the frame in the final location of the new front hangers (as marked in step 1 above) and trace the metal to be removed.
Place the remaining cardboard template on the outside face of the frame in the final location of the new front hangers (as marked in step 1 above) and trace the metal to be removed.
Place the cardboard template on the inside face of the frame in the final location of the new front hangers (as marked in step 1 above) and trace the metal to be removed.
Use a combination of cut-off wheels, grinding wheels, and flap disks, to carefully remove frame material a little bit at a time until the new front hangers fit neatly. Ensure that:
- - the top is level front-to-rear and side-to-side,
  - they are aligned correctly (straight) front-to-rear.
Note: it is critical to sneak up on this fit rather than going for it all at once, as your traced marks will likely be close-but-not-perfect, and you want to have as little gap around the new leaf hangers as possible in order to have strong welds.

Sneaking up on the fit.
Once the new front hanger fits snuggly into the frame, use 4 tacks to hold it in place.
Measure the distance from the oval, rear-most hole, of the transmission cross member to the center of the new front leaf spring hanger bolt hole, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be the-same-or-similar between the driver and passenger sides of the truck and should match the numbers in step 12 of Testing Fitment.

Fabricating and Tacking Frame Reinforcement Plates

If you've frenched the new front hangers into the frame, it is a good idea to reinforce the frame around the front hangers using a piece of 1/8- to 3/16-inch thick steel plate, 14-by-6-inches in size.

Note: (1) or (2) reinforcement plates may be used per side. If using one (1), place it on the inside face of the frame.

Using the cardboard template earlier as a starting point, notch out the reinforcement plate so that the new front hanger will be approximately in the middle of the plate.
Place the piece of reinforcement steel plate on the inside face of the frame and finalize fit, ensuring as tight a fit to the front hanger as possible.
After finalizing fit around the new front leaf hanger, eliminate square corners from the reinforcement plate, to reduce the chance of weakening the frame in those locations (see photo).
Using clamps as necessary to pull the reinforcement plate tightly against the frame and tack the outer edge of the reinforcement to the frame.
Repeat for the remaining reinforcement plates.

Welding the New Front Hangers and Frame Reinforcement Plates

Complete welding around the entire perimeter of the new front hangers and frame reinforcement plates, keeping the following in mind:

The steel on the new front hangers is significantly thicker than the steel of the frame or reinforcement plate. Concentrate heat on the hanger as it is tied into the thinner material.
Along any edges where the frame, reinforcement plate, and new front hangers meet, be sure to weld all three together for a stronger weld. Note: Do not weld the new front hanger to the frame and then the reinforcement plate to the weld between the frame and front hanger - this will create a weaker joint than welding all three together.
Don't put too much heat into a given area at any single time. Move from place to place, alternating sides, in order to manage heat levels.
When you are done welding the perimeter of the new front hangers and frame reinforcement plates, there should be no gaps or holes that allow for moisture intrusion between any of the components.

Congratulations, the hard part is done!

Measuring for the New Rear Shackle Mounts

The new rear shackle mounts will mount approximately in the same location as the stock rear shackle mounts for a '98-04 Tacoma, and will be significantly further to the back than the stock rear shackle mounts for a '95-97 Tacoma. The precise location is somewhat "to taste," with the following guidelines:

The further back (to a point) the center eye of the new rear shackle mounts sit, the more lift will be achieved.
The center eye of the new rear shackle should not be mounted so far back that the shackle ever extends past vertical (shackle inversion) when the rear suspension is fully drooped.
When semi-loaded to loaded, the shackle should rest in the 38-45 degree range.

With the following in mind, and using 5-inch-long shackles, I opted to move the new rear shackle eye forward 1/4-inch from the stock location. This would result in:

a slightly lower rear end,
allow me to control lift by installing longer shackles,
and reduce the likelihood of shackle inversion.

Measure the distance from the back edge of the frame to the center of the bushing eye of the OEM rear shackle hanger, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be the-same-or-similar between the driver and passenger sides of the truck. On my truck, it was 8 9/16".
Determine the distance from the back edge of the frame to the center of the bushing eye for the new rear shackle hanger, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be the-same-or-similar between the driver and passenger sides of the truck. For my installation, I decided on 8 13/16".

Cutting Off the OEM Leaf Spring Hangers (Front and Rear)

When removing the OEM hangers, be careful to not cut into the frame, compromising the integrity of the frame. It is much better to cut less and slowly grind more, than to be overzealous with the initial cutting.

Using a combination of a Sawzall and cut-off wheels on a grinder, remove as much of the OEM leaf spring hangers as possible. I've found that:
- The front hanger is most easily chopped off where it extends past the edge of the frame rails, not trying to grind off any of the welds to remove it.
- The rear hanger is most easily removed by cutting the welds that secure it along sides, front, and back.
  
  Cutting off the front hanger prior to grinding.
  
  Cutting off the rear hanger prior to grinding.
Using a flap disk, tidy up the location around the OEM front hanger to the extent you desire.
Using a flap disk, grind off any remaining welds and metal where the OEM rear hanger attached to the frame, as you'll need to weld the new rear hanger in approximately the same location.

No going back now!

Welding the New Rear Shackle Mounts

Prep the rear shackle mounts for installation by centering the bushing tube in the center of the mount and welding all seams of the two components that comprise the assembly.
Using the measurements recorded when "Measuring for the New Rear Shackle Mounts," align the outer edge of the shackle mount with the outer edge of the frame. Note: align the outer edge of the shackle mount with the frame, not the outer edge of the bushing tube, which will stick past the outer edge of the frame.
Tack the rear shackle mounts to the frame in (4) locations.
Determine the distance from the back edge of the frame to the center of the bushing eye for the new rear shackle hanger, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be the-same-or-similar between the driver and passenger sides of the truck and should match the numbers recorded in the "Measuring for the New Rear Shackle Mounts" section.
Measure the distance from the center of the front hanger bolt hole to the center of the bushing eye for the new rear shackle hanger, and write the numbers here: Driver: ____________ Passenger: ____________ Note: These numbers should be the-same-or-similar between the driver and passenger sides of the truck.
If the numbers in step 4 and 5 are match/are correct, continue; otherwise, cut the tacks and correct.
Complete welding around the entire perimeter of the new rear shackle mounts.

Painting the Frame

Use a wire wheel, wire brush, flap disk, and any other tools necessary to clean up loose paint and weld spatter around the front and rear hangers.
Use 2-3 light coats of a quality primer to cover any unpainted metal.
Use 2-3 light coats of a quality UV-resistant paint to cover any primed areas.

Congratulations, fabrication is complete, it's time to reassemble!

Connecting the New Leaf Pack to the Frame and Rear Axle

With the new hangers installed, installation is mostly the reverse of removal.

Coat all surfaces of the polyurethane bushings that slide into the rear shackle mounts with a high-quality grease such as Superlube.
Cover the metal sleeves that press into the polyurethane bushings with a high-quality grease such as Superlube and press them into the polyurethane bushings.
Position the front eye of the Chevy 63 leaf springs into the front hanger and insert a 9/16" bolt to hold it in position.
Loosely thread on a 9/16" nut so the bolt cannot slide out of the hanger.
Position the rear eye of the Chevy 63 leaf springs into the rear shackle/hanger and insert (2) 9/16" bolts to hold it in position.
Loosely thread on (2) 9/16" nuts so the bolt cannot slide out of the rear shackles.
With the wheels and tires still attached, maneuver the rear axle assembly into position under the leaf springs, aligning the center hole of the leaf perches with the head of the leaf spring center pin. Note: you may need to raise the rear of the frame slightly in order for the leaf springs to clear and engage with the leaf perches.
Using the new u-bolts and top plates, secure the rear axle to the Chevy 63 leaf springs. Note: the u-bolts should be just tight enough to keep the leaf perches and leaf springs aligned/together. Do not torque the u-bolts at this time.
Carefully remove any jack stands that are supporting the truck.

Installing the Gas Tank

Install the small clip that holds the pin that secures the gas tank strap to the cross-member.
Carefully raise the gas tank into position, being careful not to tweak the filler neck in the process.
Using a 12mm socket and any necessary extensions, install the tensioning bolt that secures the strap that wraps around the bottom of the gas tank to the frame. Torque to 46 ft-lbs.
Using a 12mm socket, install the single bolt that secures the front of the gas tank to the frame cross member. Torque to 22 ft-lbs.
Using a 12mm socket and any necessary extensions, install the four (4) bolts - 2 front and 2 rear - that secure the gas tank skid plate to the gas tank. Torque to 22 ft-lbs.
Using a 12mm socket, attach the bracket that secures the fuel filler neck to the frame. Torque: tight.
Using a 12mm socket, attach the emergency brake cable from the bracket that secures the fuel filler neck to the frame. Torque: tight.
Re-attach the unpressurized fuel return and evap hoses, and secure the lines to the fuel tank with compression clips.
Using a 19mm and 14mm flare nut wrenches, reconnect the pressurized fuel line. Torque: just tight enough to not leak.
Reconnect the fuel pump and fuel sender wiring harness to the top of the gas tank.

Connecting the e-locker

Reconnect the small breather line by pressing it into the e-locker.
Reconnect the two plugs that secure the wiring harness to the e-locker.
Install the 12mm bolt that secures the e-locker wiring harness to the rear axle housing. Torque: tight.

Installing the Flexible Brake Line between the Frame and Axle Housing

Note: after reinstalling the brake line, you will need to bleed the brakes prior to driving the truck.

Replace the original rear brake line with an extended line that will not limit travel of the Chevy 63 leaf springs. This 26" long stainless steel line is a good option.
Screw the flexible brake line into the tee that is bolted to the rear axle housing. Torque: just tight enough to not leak.
Using a 10mm flare nut wrench on the hard line, and the appropriately sized wrench on the flexible brake line, reconnect the brake line at the driver side frame bracket. Torque: just tight enough to not leak.
Reinstall the brake line clip that secures the brake line at the driver side frame rail.

Connecting the Brake Proportioning Valve Lever

It is unlikely that your brake proportioning valve will work correctly given the additional travel afforded by Chevy 63 leaf springs. One of four options can be choosen:

Reinstall the brake proportioning lever with a riser to account for the additional lift and travel.
Eliminate the brake proportioning valve entirely (a larger project), and replace it with a manual brake proportioning valve installed elsewhere on the truck.
Zip-tie the brake proportioning lever as high as it can go, usually to the hard brake line above it at the driver side of the frame. This results in the rear brakes always providing maximum braking, and is generally a reasonable solution for significantly-heavier-than-stock Tacomas.

Reconnecting the ABS

Only necessary for trucks equipped with ABS.

Reconnect the ABS line is to the rear axle housing in several locations with 12mm bolts and clips. Torque: tight.
Reconnect the respective ABS sensor plugs from each side of the rear axle housing.

Reconnecting the Emergency Brake

Reconnect the emergency brake line to the rear axle housing in several locations with 12mm bolts and clips. Torque: tight.
Reinstall the pin and small clip that secures the emergency brake cable to the rear brake drum.

Reconnecting the Rear Drive Shaft to the Rear Diff

The drive shaft need not be disconnected from the transfer case for this procedure.

Align the witness marks on the rear drive shaft and rear diff.
Using a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench, install the four (4) bolts that secure the rear drive shaft to the rear diff flange. Torque: 56 ft-lbs.

Install the Bed

Using the help of several friends or an engine hoist, lift the bed onto the frame of the truck. As you do, be careful to thread the fuel filler tube into the filler area without bending it.
Using a 17mm socket and any necessary extensions, install the (2) front, (2) middle, and (2) rear bed bolts that secure the bed to the frame. Torque: 50-65 ft-lbs. Note: recommend using anti-seize on these bolts.

Install the Taillights and Fuel Filler Housing

Fish the taillight wiring harness up into the taillight holes in the bed.
Install the plastic clips holding the taillight harness to the bed, being careful not to break the clips.
Plug in any connectors for the taillights (and tow harness if applicable).
Install the four (4), Philips screws that hold each taillight to the bed.
Install the four (4), Philips screws that secure the plastic fuel filler housing around the fuel neck.

Install the Rear Bumper

Use a 17mm socket and short extension to install the four (4) bolts that secure the rear bumper brackets to the frame. Torque to 59 ft-lbs.
Locate the license plate illumination lights and reconnect them to the bumper by rotating them clockwise from the back side of the bumper.

Reposition Lower Shock Mounts

It is likely that the Chevy 63 leaf springs will have a different ride height and more travel than the leaf springs that were previously installed. If they do, it is necessary to reposition the lower shock mounts on the rear axle housing in order to match the travel of the leaf springs. Follow these steps if you've previously relocated your rear shocks as outlined in How-To: Toyota Tacoma Rear Shock Relocation - Determining Leaf Spring Cycle and Mount Positioning; otherwise, follow the same guide to completely relocate your rear shocks.

Determine Maximum Compression (Up-Travel) Distance

Place the floor jack under the rear diff if it is not already there.
Place several hundred pounds of weight on top of the frame, ideally relatively evenly distributed. Note: using a piece of plywood across the frame, and sandbags on the plywood is a good strategy here.
Jack up the rear diff (and axle) until either:
1. the bump stops (on both sides) contact the frame. Note: if this happens and your leaf springs are not flat or slightly "frowned," your bump stops are likely too tall and are limiting travel unnecessarily. Consider repeating this step with shorter bump stops.
  OR
2. your top leafs (on both sides) reach the point where it is flexed more than you want it to flex on the trail (a slight frown), whichever comes first. Critically Important Note: If during this process, the truck starts to lift off of the jack stands supporting the frame, you need to add more weight on top of the frame until the truck remains supported by the jack stands. This is critical to ensure you achieve full compression.
If your bump stops are not contacting the frame at this point, measure the distance between the top of the bump stop and the frame and write down that distance here; otherwise, write down 0" (zero).
distance to bump: __________
Determine the distance that your bump stops will compress and write that number here:
bump compression: __________
Add the values from the previous two steps, plus ¾" to complete this formula:
__________ + __________ + ¾" = __________

Preparing the Lower Shock Mount

RuffStuff R1988-8 lower shock mounts come with a 10º angle fabbed into the mount when it is mounted to the axle. We want to remove that angle for installation on a first gen Tacoma axle.

Use an angle grinder and flap disk to remove material on the "longer" radius-ed edge of the lower shock mount until it's the same as the shorter radius-ed edge, and extends straight off of the rear axle when held in place.

Positioning the Lower Shock Mounts

Using a ratchet strap, compress one of your shocks until the length of the exposed shaft is the length determined above.
Temporarily (loosely) install the top of the compressed shock in one of the top shock mounts.
Temporarily (loosely) install the lower shock mount to the bottom of the compressed shock.
Rotate the compressed shock toward the rear axle until the lower shock mount contacts the axle in the appropriate position (which will be determined by the length of the compressed shock and position of the raised rear axle). Note: Ideally at this point, the lower shock mount will extend straight back or slightly up from the bottom of the rear axle. If it points down too much, that may indicate that your shocks are too long.
Note the general location of the lower shock mount at this point.
As necessary, unbolt any brake lines or other objects attached to the rear axle that may obstruct grinding or welding on the axle.
and use the angle grinder to remove paint from that location.
With the lower mount still installed on the shock, rotate it into position on the rear axle and tack it on, with four tacks.
Remove the ratchet strap from the shock (and hope your tacks hold).
Repeat steps 1-7 for the opposite side.

Cycling the Suspension (to Determine the Need for Limit Straps)

Re-install your wheels and tires, using two lug nuts per wheel - just to get the weight on the rear axle.
If they are still there, remove the 3-ton jack stands from under the rear axle and set them aside.
Slowly release pressure on the floor jack that is holding up the rear diff so the rear axle can droop down. At this point, one of three things will happen:
1. The rear leaf will fully droop out without allowing the shock to bottom out or the wheels to touch the ground. You're done - you do not need limit straps.
2. The rear leaf will droop down until the entire shock shaft is exposed, and the shock will limit further droop. If this is the case, you need a limit strap that will prevent your shock from getting into this situation. Create and install a limit strap that keeps 1" of shock shaft in the shock. Note: in practice, the strap will stretch during use, and so that 1" of shaft will be used.
3. The rear leaf will droop down until the tires touch the ground, and the wheels will limit further droop. If this is the case, you need to lift the rear frame of the truck higher - using the 6-ton jack stands - and then repeat the process until you are in one of the two situations above.

Completing Fabrication of the Shock Mounts

Remove the wheels and tires, to get them out of the way, giving yourself room to work.
Use a ratchet strap around one of the shocks to compress it just enough to remove it from the upper and lower shock mounts.
Repeat step 2 for the other shock.
Completely weld the upper shock mounts to the round tube, favoring the puddle toward the shock mount as it is thicker material than the round tube. Do not weld an entire shock mount at once - alternate between the two mounts to allow heat buildup to dissipate.
Completely weld the round tube to the frame, favoring the puddle toward the round tube, as it is thicker material than the frame. Alternate between the two sides to allow heat buildup to dissipate.
Weld the lower shock mounts to the axle, favoring the puddle toward the shock mount, as it is thicker material than the axle housing. Do not weld an entire shock mount at once - alternate between the two mounts to allow heat buildup to dissipate.
Using a spare piece of 1.75" round tubing, and the 3/16" steel plate for gusseting, trace three circles in a triangular pattern. Cut out two of these "rounded triangles" and tack, then weld them onto the end of the round tubing and outside of the frame to strengthen the bond, favoring the 3/16" steel plate with the puddle, since it is thicker than the frame.

Cleaning up and Painting

Using a wire wheel and wire cup (and any other necessary wheels) on the angle grinder, clean up the areas that were welded - removing spatter, scorching, nearby loose paint, etc.
Prime, then paint any bare metal areas using your favorite spray paint.
Watch paint dry.

Finishing up and Torquing to Spec

Ensure that the truck is sitting on level ground and supporting its own weight.
Torque the u-bolts to:
- Toyota OEM u-bolts: 90 ft-lbs.
- 9/16" Heavy Duty u-bolts: 110 ft-lbs.
Torque the front leaf spring mount to 116 ft-lbs.
Torque the rear leaf spring shackle (both nuts) to 67 ft-lbs.
Torque wheel lug nuts to 89 ft-lbs.
Torque the upper and lower shock mounts to 53 ft-lbs. Note: torque spec may be different if using relocated shocks.

Look ma, rusty new parts!