Ever since our very first trip to Death Valley - when we passed through Butte Valley for a single night - I've loved this little pocket of paradise in the Panamint Mountains. While many seem to take joy in the cabins sprinkled around its perimeter, the highlight - for me - has always been a pile of granite boulders with the most fabulous view of Striped Butte. I am not the first to enjoy this place; it has certainly been a resting point for thousands of years. Still, I've never spent more than a few daylight hours in this wonderful valley, and I was delighted to finally plan a three-day excursion that would allow me to poke around a little bit, discovering more of the glorious secrets in this Butte-iful place.
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Usually, our arrival to Death Valley happens under the cover of darkness - both because we leave the Pacific Northwest in mid-afternoon, and because the winter days are so short. This time, however, we got an early start and found ourselves rolling through Furnace Creek somewhere between 3:00pm and 4:00pm; not early, but still with plenty of time for a little detour before heading into Butte Valley for a few days.
Temperatures were warm but nothing to complain about. (left) | Gas prices were high, too, but not that much higher than they are at home. And probably to be expected when you blockade a blockade. 
I'd planned on heading straight from Las Vegas to Butte Valley via Jubilee Pass, but given that we had a couple hours of daylight, I realized it was the perfect time to check out something I've been hoping to see for quite some time. In fact, the only reason I hadn't set out to find a couple of propellers from a pair of B-24 Heavy Bombers, was that the road to access them had been closed for the better part of a year. No longer!
Making our way over some seriously salty water. The color was brilliant enough to get me to stop.
As we sped through the diabolical landscape, the alien formations were too much to ignore. As is so often the case, we were again distracted by the beauty of the desert around us and soon I was out of the truck again, looking for the perfect pinnacle in a sea of points.
Who would ever want to play golf out here? The Devil, that's who!
Reach for the sky, you little salt spires!
I should mention that at one point during this wandering, I'd fully sunk both feet into the super-saturated slurry with the relaxed confidence of a man who has definitely done this before and definitely learned nothing from it. My shoes became crystal-coated salt sculptures. My socks, through some miracle of physics I'll never understand, stayed completely dry. I returned to the truck for a change of shoes, which raised the obvious question: change into what? Exactly. Moving on.
Soon, we were out of the truck again, working our way across the desert.
1 August 1944 | Death Valley, California
At 0815 PWT, a Consolidated B-24D and a B-24J collided in mid-air and crashed 10 miles south of Furnace Creek, killing 17 fliers aboard both airplanes.
The airplanes were part of a flight of six B-24s that had taken off from Army Air Field at Muroc, California, on a gunnery and formation training mission. The formation, consisting of two three-ship elements in V-flights, had assembled at 9,000 feet (Indicated Altitude) over the AAF Bombing Range near Muroc. The formation then climbed to altitude in preparation for the gunnery exercise over Muroc.
The formation flew to the northeast for a short time and then to the east, making a 180-degree left turn over Death Valley. The formation was beginning to level out of the turn and was flying west at 20,000 feet when the collision occurred.
Other pilots in the formation reported that during the flight they had observed B-24J #42-78522, which was the lead airplane of the second element, flying too close vertically to the first element.
Engine Troubles
Several minutes before the collision, B-24D #42-72862, flying in the number-two position of the first element, had reported to the flight leader that it was suffering a problem with the number-three turbo-supercharger. Other pilots in the flight stated that the B-24D had trouble holding formation, lagging slightly behind the lead element for much of the flight. Apparently trying to leave the formation – or perhaps continuing in the turn that the formation had completed – the pilot of the B-24D was seen executing a gentle turn to the left, causing the pilot of the B-24J, who was flying a tight formation on the first element, to attempt the same gentle left turn in an attempt to parallel the course of the B-24D and avoid collision.
Caught in Trailing Turbulence
The B-24D apparently became caught in the propeller turbulence of the leading airplanes, causing its port wing to dip further down in the turn. Unable to follow the maneuver and anticipating the collision, the pilot of the B-24J attempted a banking maneuver to the right as the B-24D continued to bank to the left and into the path of his airplane.
Midair Collision
The B-24J was attempting to roll to the right and under the B-24D but the number-one engine and propeller collided with the B-24D fuselage from underneath near the waist windows, severing the tail of the B-24D and sending it plummeting to earth where it exploded in flames upon impact.
Propeller of a B-24J.
Quite an odd sight out here on the salt pan.
In a different light.
Battered blades.
One Survivor
B-24s flying in the second element had to maneuver to avoid striking flaming debris and the severed tail section of the B-24D that were hurtling through the formation. The B-24J appeared to “hover” in mid-air momentarily as the two port engines and pieces of the flight deck and fuselage peeled away before the bomber spun to earth and exploded into flames. Top turret gunnery student Pvt. Newton J. Steven was hurled from the B-24J #42-78522 as it broke apart and he was able to parachute to safety, receiving only minor injuries.
Two Bombers Down
The wreckage of B-24J #42-78522 was scattered over two square miles on the talus slope near Devil’s Golf Course. B-24D #42-72862 slammed to earth on the salt marsh south of Devil’s Golf Course.
Propeller of a B-24D.
Investigation revealed that this was the first high-altitude formation flight for all four of the pilots killed in the collision. Investigators recommended that all crewmembers wear their parachute gear at all times while airborne and that the crew wear their parachutes in flight whenever possible.
Killed in the crash of B-24J #42-78522 were: 2Lt. Ernest J. Chapman, pilot; 2Lt. William Johansen, co-pilot; F/0 Eugene E. Hechtman, navigator; F/O John H. Tilson, bombardier; Cpl. Arlington S. Leininger, engineer; Cpl. Richard A. Lira, radio operator; Cpl. Louis C. Bartlett, gunner, Pfc. Ted W Srigley, gunner; Pfc. Donald C. Becker, gunner.
Killed in the crash of B-24D #42-72862 were: 2Lt. Sam B. Johnson, pilot; 2Lt. Rex Phillips, co-pilot; Cpl. Edgar A. Peloquin, engineer; Pfc. Robert T. Thomas, engineer; Cpl. Kenneth D. Towns, radio operator; Cpl. Carroll B. Ball, gunner; Pfc. Ellis B. Crowley, gunner; Pfc. Donald F. Hickok, gunner.
Besides the propellers - which were the primary thing I wanted to see, we also found several unspent rounds of 50 caliber ammunition. Clearly, this stuff has been under-salty-water for quite some time!
Not going to fire any time soon.
A bit more wandering and we found some miscellaneous parts and debris; most of it unrecognizable, and none of it worth more than a mention here. There used to be - or perhaps still is and we didn't find it - more at this site, but time and collectors have taken their toll. For us though, seeing the propellers was a great way to kick off the trip, and we were both looking forward to gaining a bit of elevation - to beat the heat - as we headed toward Butte Valley.
Climbing the alluvial fan toward the Panamint Mountains, we quickly realized that we weren't going to make it before sunset, and that the drive - now, directly toward the setting sun - would be much more pleasant when the sun was at our backs the following morning.
Here's the thing about slowing down: you have to actually slow down. I know this because I have spent years failing to do it. But this time, with the sun dropping behind the Panamints and no agenda beyond "spend a few days in Butte Valley," we just... stopped. Found a spot. Parked the truck. Sat there. It was deeply suspicious and I'm still not sure we did it right, but the view was spectacular so I'm calling it a win.
We got setup just as the sun was dropping below the peaks of the Panamints.
All alone with the Black Mountains.
We'd eaten a big lunch at In-N-Out, and neither of us was hungry for dinner, so we skipped the taco-rritos and guac we'd planned. Instead, we snacked on a pineapple that we'd had kicking around at home for a few days. Let me tell you, cool pineapple on a warm desert evening is something else!
Tacoma twilight.
Soon enough, we fell into our usual routine - a few minutes in the cab, reading, knitting, and copying photos from the camera to computer for safe keeping - before brushing our teeth and making ourselves horizontal.
A cool breeze blew through the tent as we dozed off on the alluvial fan, each of us looking forward to the next few days in one of our favorite places in the park.
The Whole Story
Furnace creek gas actually looking reasonable compared to the current prices we're paying at our local pumps nowadays! That has to be a first.
I was thinking exactly the same thing. It used to be double what we paid, but now it's only a buck more a gallon than what we're paying here in Seattle. But hey, it's only going to be like this "for a little while," right? I mean "if Iran does what they should do, it will come roaring down," right? Certainly, blockading a blockade that didn't exist a couple months ago is sure to make things better.
Sigh.
Another interesting adventure, with your often lyrical prose and gorgeous pictures. Let's hope the people and agencies that manage and protect these irreplaceable resources are given the funding to continue to do their job. Best.
Thanks Larry. I can't echo your concern for the good folks at Furnace Creek - and really, across our country who manage our public lands, enough.