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The Second Best Site | Return to the Desert #2

I have organized this story a bit differently than most.

Some of the locations have little or no reporting on the internet and I feel they should remain that way or someone I respect has personally requested that I not share them; as such, locations have been redacted and/or not mentioned, I've used non-official names for local landmarks, and the order of the trip has been randomized.

Please, if you know the locations shown here, I encourage you to enjoy them as much as I did - and follow my lead by not mentioning their names or locations in order to keep them a little less well-known, and special.

For more on my approach, you can read Do you have a GPX for that?.

Just as with the Dewey Mine, there's been a rock art site in the heart of the Mojave Preserve that I've known about for several years but have never visited. So, when Mike @mk5 and I were coordinating a couple days of Joshua Tree planting, I was thrilled when - along with all the meals he wanted to cook for @mrs.turbodb and me - he piped up with:

Another thing that didn't occur to me until now... but given your interest in historic rock vandalism, perhaps we could track some down up there, as part of a planting hike?

m(never-seen-rock-art)k5

At any rate, by the time we finally got under way, the sun was racing towards the western horizon. This wouldn't be the best light for exploring the etchings, but I hoped that we'd have enough light - even after sunset - to enjoy a reasonably shadowless half-hour of discovery.

Plus, Mike had offered our choice of feast after we completed our survey of varnished rocks, and we were going to take full advantage of his delicious sounding menu.

I will happily cook two nights, in fact. But not three, and I insist on at least one. I further demand that you provide me with food on at least one other night. I can offer:

  • 24 servings of 'chicken and dumplings'. Never gets old.
  • Poached rainbow trout, served with rice pilaf and additional rainbow trout. (I murdered them myself!)
  • Steak with random vegetables cooked in red wine. One component will be slightly overcooked and the other slightly undercooked, but I never know which. I will then drink the remainder of the red wine.
  • NEW: Fish tacos! Devised, refined, and perfected during this summer's unprecedently prolific camping/fishing campaign... a hilariously elaborate and utterly impractical recipe. Served enthusiastically and incredibly slowly, but worth the wait.

Once we're thoroughly stuffed, I will either partially incinerate a batch of Jiffy Pop and offer it to you, or I'll bake a whole entire cake.

This site isn't unknown by any stretch, but I was surprised by how little travel the road seemed to experience.

Joshua Trees glowed under the Clark Mountains.

On our way.

A guilty grin as I was caught in the act - and with no opportunity to shrug off my goofy hood-under-hat - of snapping a photo.

The two-mile hike - or, at the speed we were going, more of a stroll - to the petroglyphs was quite pleasant. Temperatures had cooled off but were still pleasant, and with no wind to speak of, we enjoyed picking our way between creosote - that have overtaken an old mining road - toward the pile of rocks that promised to hook Mike on yet another class of destination to search out on his desert wanderings.

Dubious that he'd find anything of interest to look at, it was fun to watch Mike's reaction as we spotted the first panel.

When visiting rock art and ruin sites, be respectful.

This is most easily done by following the Leave No Trace principles; leaving the place exactly as you found it and taking with you only photographs and memories. In case that is not clear enough for some reason, here are examples of respectful behaviors:

click to expand

"Look, it's a cactus!" -Mike
(It's probably not a cactus.)

It turns out that we'd stumbled upon what I can only refer to as the "second best site" (that I've found, and I've found a good number) for petroglyphs in the entire Mojave Preserve. Only this ancient highway tops it, in my mind.

Soon, we were all hopping around on the rocks looking for additional panels. Pointing out unique - and not-so-unique - discoveries, I realized that we'd seriously misjudged how much time we were going to need to see everything. Shifting from lazy stroll to keep-up-or-be-lost-to-the-desert, I hoped we could cover most of what there was to see. Boy, was I wrong.

We had to watch our step, there were glyphs everywhere!

A split panel below the 'cactus.' (left) | Two snakes. (right)

I really liked the bulbous shape in the middle here, which reminded me of a woman encased by some sort of wrapping.

Another encased woman and a fantastical falcon.

This glyph was great because it wrapped around the sharp edge of its canvas.

So much to see.

A panel of ... maps?

At the point of the bluff, both sides were covered in shapes and styles that we've encountered elsewhere in the preserve.

I really enjoyed how the light lines of the petroglyphs contrasted with the dark browns of the desert varnish and the pastel hues of the sunset.

Shields.

Dotted S.

Sometimes it's the rock that stands out, and the gentle curve on this one was spectacular.

One of the last petroglyphs I photographed before there wasn't enough light to continue reminded me of the Blueprint Petroglyph I'd searched for several times before eventually finding it.

With our ISO settings maxed out and barely enough light to navigate the boulders that were our bounty, we eventually called it quits and pointed ourselves back toward the Tacomas.

It would be shortly after 7:00pm when we pulled into camp somewhere along the northern slope of Cima Dome. Dinner - we'd agreed - would be delectable fish tacos, where the fish - two rainbow trout - were allegedly caught by the cook and saved precisely for this occasion.

As Mike assembled a more elaborate dinner than we've ever attempted on the trail, I took the opportunity to fashion an @mk5-style rendering of our camp site.

In the distance, I happened to catch - completely by accident - the vertical beam of Las Vegas' Luxor as it streaked into the sky!

Dinner was everything Mike promised it would be. Within 45 minutes of pulling into camp, he finally got the first bits - some extremely spicy "not the right peppers, but all I could find at the store" - sizzling over the propane fire ring. Half an hour after that, remainder of the utterly impractical recipe had been executed enthusiastically and we were all enjoying fresh fish tacos in the middle of the desert!

It was a fantastic way to end the day, and after downing every last fish-filled tortilla that he'd brought along, we clustered around the camp fire and chatted the night away. It was a situation that could have only been made better with a "whole entire cake," but apparently, we were going to have to wait on that tasty treat for another time.

 

 

The Whole Story

 

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9 Comments

  1. T o m
    T o m December 4, 2024

    Very cool…nice find.

    Years ago I was invited to a private 10k acre ranch in Big Bend that was home to the remains of a 4000 year old Indian village. The pictographs were amazing and there was a fire pit of burned yucca where it had sat for who knows how long. I lifted up some of the yucca to look underneath and found javelina rib bones that still had dried blood on them.

    Amazing experience.

    • turbodb
      turbodb December 5, 2024

      Wow, that sounds fantastic! There must be so many cultural sites on private land these days. I sure hope those who have found them in their possession, look after and cherish them.

      • T o m
        T o m December 5, 2024

        The owner of that ranch hired some archeologists and was rebuilding the stone dwellings that archeologists in the late 1800's had knocked down so they could see what was under them...seriously. The same archeologists wrote their names in pencil on some of the pictographs. Unreal.

        The neighbors on the ranch across the highway from me had an ancient creek bed running across their property that was full of dinosaur tracks that they kept quiet about. My property was full of arrowheads. Every time I walked out the door after a rainfall I would find a few.

  2. Rick Williams
    Rick Williams December 5, 2024

    I never really appreciated the history of petroglyphs until you sparked my interest out near Hart Mountain. I've since visited that site, and the one near Las Vegas. I now find it very fascinating!

    • turbodb
      turbodb December 5, 2024

      Awesome! I have to share a similar story, if you don't mind.

      I wasn't ever really into rock art, either, until I was browsing around on the internet for some GPS tracks to explore places in Utah. As I did, I stumbled on a blog of a adventr, by a guy named Randy. He had a bunch of GPS tracks, but mostly to get him to trailheads where he'd then hike to rock art sites.

      Some of his photos - especially of multi-colored pictographs - caught my eye and I decided to check out one of his hikes. When I found the rock art, I was hooked. Both on the rock art and the hiking!
      I think the hiking turns off a lot of folks (compared to what my wife and I like to call "American Hiking" which is done with four wheels and a skinny pedal 😉), but for us it has meant getting to see some really beautiful places, with rock art to boot!

  3. Jon Talley
    Jon Talley December 5, 2024

    Awesome as usual! When you are in the area you need to check out 3 Rivers Petroglyph site in New Mexico. It is a public place that we accidently found on a trip last winter. There are thousands of glyphs, we spent way longer than expected.

    • turbodb
      turbodb December 5, 2024

      Thanks Jon! And thanks for mentioning the 3 Rivers site, I'll add that to our list for when we're next in NM.

  4. Bill Rambo
    Bill Rambo December 13, 2024

    Great story and pictures. Looking forward to next year to head that direction.

    • turbodb
      turbodb December 13, 2024

      Thanks Bill. I'm sure you'll have a great time out there!

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