I've done a lot of exploring in and around Death Valley National Park, and have spent many a morning watching the sun illuminate the Inyo Mountains from the east. But, I've spent almost no time exploring the Inyo Mountains from the west - Owen's Valley - side.
I'm not sure exactly why this has been the case - there's a ton to experience - but I suppose it's due to the fact that it's nestled between the dramatic Sierra Nevada and my favorite National Park.
Regardless, I've wanted to drive the Swansea to Cerro Gordo Road - up past the apex of the Saline Valley Salt Tram - ever since we visited the lower towers back in 2019. I've heard amazing things about Papoose Flats and Mazourka Peak, and the network of roads that run through the western slopes of this imposing range.
And so, with three and a half days to explore, I'm leaving the heat of the valley behind and climbing into the cool mountain air. Surely, I'll love what I find, and if it's anything like I expect, I'll only be left wanting for more. More time to explore the Inyo West.
Worth More Than Gold | Inyo West #1 - I've done a lot of exploring in and around Death Valley National Park, and have spent many a morning watching the sun illuminate the Inyo Mountains from the east. But, I've spent almost no time exploring the Inyo Mountains from the west - Owen's Valley - side. I'm not sure exactly why this has been the case - there's a ton to experience - but I suppose it's due to the fact that it's nestled between the dramatic Sierra Nevada and my favorite National Park. Regardless, I've wanted to drive the Swansea to Cerro Gordo Road - up past the…
Swansea to Cerro Gordo | Inyo West #2 - I've been wanting to run the Swansea to Cerro Gordo Road - to visit the uppermost control tower of the Saline Valley Salt Tram - ever since we attempted to hike to the lowest control tower on the Saline Valley side in 2019. While the road itself has its own reputation for a few dangerous and technical sections, it was only a matter of setting aside the time - and figuring out what else to explore in the surrounding area in order to make the trip worthwhile - that'd kept me from visiting. Today though, that would all change. I'd…
Mazourka | Inyo West #3 - Having thoroughly enjoyed my time on the Swansea to Cerro Gordo loop, I had two more areas - or at least, access points - in the Inyo Mountains that I wanted to explore. I didn't know much about either of them, but they centered around Mazourka Peak, which I thought would be a nice, high elevation - so cooler - place to spend the night. Getting there required a bit of pavement and a refuel in Independence, before heading up Mazourka Canyon road and my first decision of the morning. It's always hard for me to drive by Manzanar without…
Papoose Flat | Inyo West #4 - After thoroughly enjoying the sunrise from the shoulder of Mazourka Peak, everything was packed up and I was on the road by 7:00am. Headed back to the summit and through Badger Flat, it didn't take long to discover that I was headed the right direction. Let's go ... there! Located just a few miles east - if you're coming from town - from the town of Big Pine - and nestled into the northern end of the Inyos off of Death Valley Road, is Papoose Flat. The Paiute occupied this area and most of the Inyo Mountains into the 1930’s.…
Will be interesting to read your impressions of the road to the Summit station. Did that several years ago, followed the road up the wash out of Swansea to the ridge. It was.. attention getting. The road from the station down to Cerro Gordo only slightly less so.
Papoose Flat is sublime.
By now you have probably made the trip, but if not, you might seek out what the locals call the Drive In Mine.
Love your photos and the reports!
Enjoy!
Hey Lars - As you suspected, the trip is in the books already (as of about a week ago). Had a fantastic time, and am now working on photo processing and the writing.
The Swansea Road certainly had a couple steep and "on-the-edge" stretches, and there were a few narrow, rocky washed-out sections from the rains the last few years. Not sure it was as technical as I'd built it up to be from reading various accounts of the loop, but I had a great time, so whatever it was, I enjoyed it!
Papoose - as you stated - was amazing. I ended up spending a few hours just walking around amongst the rocks, looking for evidence of the Paiute who inhabited the area until just 100 years ago. Though I didn't find anything, it was such a pleasant, calming, centering experience, that the flat is now on my list to return to and camp at, just to be able to wander around for a longer period of time.
And of course, the views.