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Fog Lights on the Steering Stalk

Several years ago, I installed Diode Dynamics SS3 fog lights into my Relentless bumper and they've been fantastic!

At the time, I wired them into a three-position - single-pole double-throw (ON-OFF-ON) - switch that I installed in the driver side kick panel, where the three positions allowed me the ability to have the fog lights: ON - turn on directly | OFF - off | ON - turn on when the low beams were on.

This was great until I decided to reuse the switch location for my ABS disable switch, which set me on the path to finding another way to turn the fog lights on or off.

Given that I've used most of the free dash space - not that there was much to begin with - for custom switches, I was thrilled to realize that similar-era 4Runners had a fog light switch on the steering wheel headlight stalk. Not only would that eliminate the need for free space on the dash where I could mount a custom switch, but it would be super clean and stock-looking, if I could make it work.

A bit of research turned up the fact that I could actually make this work, though to do it super-clean, I'd need a few extra bits and pieces. Namely, I'd need:

  • A couple of pigtails to add into the wiring harness that connects to the light stalk in order to complete the fog light circuit, since those pins are empty on the Tacoma wiring harness.
  • A windshield wiper stalk that matches the shape of the 4Runner light stalk. The stalk for the Tacoma is essentially straight as it comes off of the steering column, where the 4Runner stalk is more of a hockey-stick shape.

New stalks.

Tacoma stalk on bottom, replacement stalk top. Note the difference in shape, which is non-functional, but aesthetically unpleasing to me when mixed-and-matched.

And so, I set about getting the parts I needed.

Parts

* Note: while you don't need the entire connector, sometimes the pigtail terminals can be found cheaper when searching eBay (the cheapest place to get them) for the connector rather than the pigtail terminals themselves.

I also had the following on hand, which are necessary for this job:

As far as parts go, that was essentially it, and I was ready to tear into the dash.

Before I walk through that process, let's take a look at the wiring diagram that we'll end up with for this project. Shown here is the FSM wiring diagram for the headlights, and I've painstakingly expanded the diagram and added the bits surrounded by yellow.

Wiring for fog lights that use the 4Runner stalk.

Most of that wiring was in place for me already, having installed it when I originally installed the fog lights; the only change I needed to make at this point was to use the fog light switch - rather than my custom switch - on the 4Runner stalk to trigger the relay that provides the power to the fog lights. To do that, I'd pull power from an ACC-enabled power source in the fuse box, so that the fog lights automatically turn off when the key is not in the ACC or ON positions, thereby preventing them from draining the battery if the Tacoma is off.

Installation

With everything in hand, the first order of business is removal of a few bits of the interior in order to access the stalk and run the necessary wiring. Photos - and a bit more detail - for this process are available in Removing the Dash Trim if the steps below are unclear.

  1. Remove the four (4) philips screws that secure the door threshold, they pry up the threshold.
  2. Remove the foot well kick panel by pulling it rearward in order to release the clips that hold it in place. Note: there are no fasteners to remove.
  3. Remove the single (1) philips head screw and four (4) 10mm bolts that secure the lower finish panel below the steering column. Drop the lower finish panel into the foot well for reinstallation later.

    After removing the fasteners, wiggle the lower finish panel to unclip it from other trim panels.

  4. Remove the steering column cover by first removing the single (1) philips head screw on the bottom piece of the cover. Then, turn the steering wheel 90 degrees left and right to access two screws behind the horn. Finally, separate the upper and lower covers carefully - by pressing in slightly on the bottom piece to release the clips - and set them aside.

    Tricky little hidden screws.

With the trim out of the way, it's time to get to the meat of the job. We'll replace the windshield wiper stalk first since it's a simple replacement.

  1. Remove the two (2) philips screws that secure the windshield wiper stalk to the steering column.
  2. Unplug the connector from the bottom of the Tacoma windshield wiper stalk.

    Removing the windshield wiper stalk.

  3. Plug the connector into the bottom of the Camry windshield wiper stalk.
  4. Install the two (2) philips screws that secure the windshield wiper stalk to the steering column.
  5. Insert the key into the ignition, turn it to the ON position, and ensure that the windshield wiper/washer functionality works as expected.
  6. If everything is working, remove the key from the ignition; otherwise, troubleshoot.

Now, it's onto the headlight stalk. Much like the windshield wiper stalk, it's also easy, but requires some minor wiring.

  1. Remove the two (2) philips screws that secure the headlight stalk to the steering column.
  2. Unplug the connector from the bottom of the Tacoma headlight stalk.
  3. Unlock the connector - to allow pigtails to be inserted - by prying the lock open approximately 1mm using a small screwdriver or pick.

    Unlocked.

  4. Locate pin 10 on the connector and insert the larger Toyota OEM Terminal Repair Pigtail (82998-12340) in from the rear of the connector.
  5. Locate pin 11 on the connector and insert the smaller Toyota OEM Terminal Repair Pigtail (82998-12420) in from the rear of the connector.

    Pin 10 and 11 from each side of the connector.

  6. Plug in the connector into the bottom of the 4Runner headlight stalk.
  7. Install the two (2) philips screws that secure the headlight stalk to the steering column.
  8. Connect one end of a length of 18-gauge wire to the Pin 11 lead, and the other to a ground point. Note: there is a ground behind the driver side kick panel.
  9. Connect one end of a length of 18-gauge wire to the Pin 10 lead, and the other to a power source. Use:
    • ACC power source if you only want the fog lights to illuminate only when the key is in the ACC/ON position and the rotary fog light switch is on.
    • Constant 12V power source if you want the fog lights to illuminate whenever the rotary fog light switch is on, regardless of key position.
  10. Insert the key into the ignition, turn it to the ON position, and ensure that the headlight (high/low/indicators) and fog light functionality works as expected.
  11. If everything is working, remove the key from the ignition; otherwise, troubleshoot.

With everything installed, reinstallation of the interior trim is the reverse of removal.

  1. Reinstall the steering column trim, and secure it with three (3) philips head screws.
  2. Reinstall the lower finish panel and secure it with four (4) 10mm bolts and one (1) philips head screw.
  3. Reinstall the kick panel by fitting it into place.
  4. Reinstall the door threshold by fitting it carefully into place and securing it with four (4) philips head screws.

And with that, you're done. The fog lights can now be controlled in a civilized fashion from the headlight stalk on the steering wheel! Good work doing the work that Toyota should have done at the factory.

"Factory" fog lights. At least, as far as the switch is concerned.

 

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Lighting(18 entries)

2 Comments

  1. Skidoo
    Skidoo October 28, 2025

    Very 😎. Always inspiring. You almost have me installing a later model steering wheel with controls for the stereo. But that might be more than I should tackle. 🫣

    • turbodb
      turbodb October 28, 2025

      Oooo, controls on the steering wheel. Now you're getting fancy. 😉 I could go for a stereo that wasn't buried at the bottom of the dash, so it could actually be used for navigation! lol

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