Polishing worked OK, but quickly reverted back to the foggy state.
TL;DR - my headlight housings are getting foggy again. Given their age - original to the Tacoma - it's time to put in some new ones.
Leave a Commentescape the ordinary
Polishing worked OK, but quickly reverted back to the foggy state.
TL;DR - my headlight housings are getting foggy again. Given their age - original to the Tacoma - it's time to put in some new ones.
Leave a CommentCosts pretty much the same.
TL;DR - having the Tacoma in Las Vegas and flying back and forth for each trip is one of the best things we've done for the setup in a long time from a quality of life perspective. It doesn't save any money though.
Leave a CommentLove this thing!
TL;DR - I don't ever really mention them, but my Canon R6 and lenses are doing great.
Leave a CommentThese are the best fuel canisters out there. They are hard to get in the United States, but if you can, you should.
TL;DR - I've begun to carry three, 20L Scepter military jerry cans full of fuel and despite the extra weight, it's been great.
Leave a CommentIs this cavity ever dry? In real life?
TL;DR - The seal in the transmission that accepts the input shaft from the transmission is leaking and needs to be replaced.
Leave a CommentCaked dust - a telltale sign of a slow leak.
TL;DR - the form in place gasket (FIPG) used to seal the carrier to the rear axle housing is leaking just a tad and needs replacing.
Leave a CommentEnd of the road.
TL;DR - The zipper finally failed catastrophically. Both CVT and YKK had amazing customer service and solved the problem in different ways.
Leave a CommentThat's not right either. After running on this for two miles or so at 65mph, even though it looks pretty normal, the tire is toast.
TL;DR - I got my third Cooper ST/Maxx flat ever, all on the same set (my fourth) of tires. I still think they are one of the best tires out there.
Leave a CommentOlder SPC UCAs with SpecRide bushings vs. newer arms with the X-Axis joint.
TL;DR - I no longer recommend SPC upper control arms (UCAs) if they contain X-Axis bushings.
Leave a CommentThe full report, minus my deets.
TL;DR - I had my first oil analysis done, and with 235K miles on the Tacoma, it came back great.
Leave a CommentValve stems that insert from the outside!
TL;DR - My Cooper ST/Maxx tires finally gave me a bit of trouble. Still, I'll probably buy a 5th set when these wear out because they've performed better than any other tire I've seen others run on the trail.
Leave a CommentThese seats are definitely the most expensive mod I've done to the Tacoma.
TL;DR - The new scheel-mann seats are doing fine. The jury is still out on whether they are worth it (and will be for several years, I think.
5 CommentsOut with the old, in with the new.
TL;DR - I replaced the lower ball joints (LBJs) as preventative maintenance after 75K miles.
Leave a CommentThat is certainly not supposed to look like it does.
TL;DR - The passenger front corner of the bed cracked all the way down to the bed floor. I've fixed it, for now.
Leave a CommentMy original SPC UCAs with sleeved poly bushings on the left; new UCAs with the X-Axis joint on the right.
TL;DR - the last time I got an alignment, the tech mentioned that the rear passenger side bushing on the upper control arm (UCA) was starting to get a bit loose. After some consideration, I decided to install completely new UCAs, with lifetime joints so I never have to worry about those bushings again.
Leave a CommentTurns out, adjustment wasn't what was needed.
TL;DR - My dirver side limit strap in the front broke. I replaced it.
Leave a Comment1st gen Tacoma front LCA Durobumps. The bump on the left is for the front hole of the LCA; the angled bump on the right is for the rear.
TL;DR - I've really liked all of the bump stops from Durobumps, so I've installed a second set on the front lower control arms!
Leave a CommentThe persuader.
TL;DR - While I think that Relentless armor is some of the best out there, the mounting of the skid plates could have been better and is causing me a bit of trouble over the years (because I lightly beat the truck).
Leave a CommentReplacing spherical bearings on the front coilover. Note that the (left) FKSSX10T-F1 bearings from the lower eye show almost no rust (since they are stainless steel) after replacement, while the (right) upper bearing FKS10T-F1 (hardened steel) shows significant rust.
TL;DR - I'm convinced that switching to extra tight stainless steel spherical bearings is the way to go, and I have numbers to prove it.
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